Bordeaux is Big- Really Big- and It’s Back!

Bordeaux is on the tip of every winemaker’s tongue- and rightfully so. Ever since the Classification of 1855, Bordeaux has set the standards for winemaking and winemakers.  Most people don’t realize that there are more wineries in Bordeaux alone than in all of California. That doesn’t by any means indicate that they are all great-or even good. But for whatever reason Bordeaux fell out of favor. It could have been the cost of the top estates going beyond the price point for many winelovers. The Chinese don’t think so- singlehandedly they have driven the costs sky high because they are willing to pay whatever it takes.

But Bordeaux is back and I can’t wait to bring our 2 groups there this May. A quick lesson in geography: there’s Bordeaux City and there’s Bordeaux County, something like NY City and NY State. There’s no wine made in Bordeaux City (altho Haut Brion is on the fringes of the town line.) You have to go outside the city of Bordeaux to find wine. Which direction? You could go North, South, East or even West and hit paydirt. Go South and you’ll be in Pessac, Graves or Sauternes; go East and there’s St. Emilion, Pomerol and Entre Deux Mers; go North and you find Medoc, home to the wineries of the aforementioned 1855 Classification. In fact there are so many wineries that you could visit 5 a day for a year and not  see them all. It’s a bit frightening and probably scares many people away. Besides that, Bordeaux is way off the tourist path. So if you do ever get to Bordeaux, you won’t too many tourists competing for visits.

So go with Wine Lovers or go on your own, but go! It’s just too great a place to overlook for winelovers.

Chateau Leoville Barton

Chateau Margaux

Chateau D'Estournel

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Great Wines Made in Maryland

Those of us on the East Coast usually look West(our West Coast)- or way to the East (Europe)- or South (as in South America). Rarely do we look under our proverbial noses, literally in our own back yard.

OK, NY State has an established reputation, but there are gems to be found in unusual places. Our focus is Maryland with over 50 wineries and in particular, our friends at Elk Run Vineyards.

Elk Run was established in 1983 by Fred Wilson and Neill Bassford. Neill, along with his wife Margie, have been frequent participants in our wine tours. (Over 10 tours!) And Neill always brings some bottles of Elk Run on the tours, to share with winemakers and other tour participants. This is how I have become familiar with Elk Run wines.

Elk Run has a lot of wines to offer, almost 20, ranging from sparkling (Champagne Blanc de Blanc), crisp remarkably dry whites, delicious dry reds, slightly sweet wines and dessert wines, so you could do an entire dinner paired with their wines. They have accumulated an astounding 600 awards for their wines!

That’s me, Bob & Neill at Guigal in the Rhone Valley .

The most recent Elk Run wine I tried was their Cabernet Franc Cold Friday Vineyard- a rich red deep in fruit flavors- most delicious. They do a great job with their Bordeaux style wines. In fact Neill, Margie and their wine buddies, Bob and Sue Cecil, will all be joining us on both our Bordeaux tours this May.

So if you can’t make it to Maryland, if you come on our Bordeaux tour, I’m pretty sure you’ll have the opportunity to try their wines.

Keep up the good work!

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A Vinous New Year’s Resolution: Make that Wine Trip!

You know you’ve wanted to visit wine regions directly. You’ve read enough; you’ve tasted enough; now you’re ready for the real MeCoy: visiting the wine region of your dreams. We sincerely hope you’ll consider us and one of our tours and although we don’t have any tours to Spain scheduled for 2012 (2013 yes, to Barcelona/Valencia), we’ve come across some great trip suggestions for visiting Spain. We’d like to share them with you and if you do go, please share your experiences with us. Happy Traveling!

How does an Orient Express type train tour in Spain sound? The Spanish Tourist Agency has announced some exciting train excursions with truly luxuriouaccommodations. Actually there are 4 different train routes and if you’re into train travel or are considering it, check out these sites: El Transcantabrico Gran Lujo; El Transcantabrico Clasico; El Expreso de la Robla; El Tren Al Andalus

How about staying at a parador instead of a traditional hotel? Paradors are run by the government and are all historically significant, so you’ll be staying in a piece of history. There have been several new paradors added and they are in every region of Spain. Check out this site before you make your hotel selections: Paradors of Spain

Parador de Alarcon

Finally for anyone interested in Spain’s Jewish heritage, there’s a great site that will help immensely in trip planning: Caminos de Sefared

Spain Has a Rich Jewish Heritage

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Sour Beer Is Good Beer

Glass of beer

Image via Wikipedia

Inspired by the recent article by Eric Asimov in the NY Times, I decided to be daring on Thanksgiving and forego wine for beer. Not just any beer but ‘sour’ beer as specified in the article. The claim was that sour beers are actually the perfect accompaniment to food.

And guess what? They were correct. And everyone at dinner who tried the ‘sour’ beer agreed that it went very well with the turkey and the side dishes. Since I didn’t have the article with me when I went to buy the beers, I selected 2 Belgian beers based on the label descriptions: Petrus Aged Pale Grand Reserve ($9- 750 ml) and Saison DuPont Belgian Farmhouse Ale. Lambics are the beers to look for as being the most sour and I recall visiting a farm brewery in Belgium years ago where the yeast enters the wort naturally from the nearby fields.

What we discovered was that the Saison was more like an ale so the word Farmhouse was misleading.But the Petrus was a different story: sour from the getgo. Maybe acidic would be a euphenism but it indeed sour. However after the initial reaction you warm up to the taste and we actually enjoyed it as a sipping beer and as a foil for the turkey.

Attention: Lovers of Burgundy wine- The Burgundy Wine Board has launched a new site that will help you learn everything you need to know about Burgundy. The online learning module features interactive maps, quizzes and even suggestions for food pairings. The visuals are great and it’s probably the next best thing to being there. Of course you can always join us on our next tour to Burgundy. Check it out at www.burgundy-wines.fr

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Adieu Madeira

Rats! We almost had 100% sunny days until it rained a bit Friday, our last day in Madeira. But it was light and only lasted momentarily- then the sun and heat came out again. I was able to get in a final ocean swim.

What a glorious day for Wine LOvers: first we went to Quinta do Monte for a tutored wine tasting and snacks. We tasted the Enxurros ’06 white from Madeira made from the Verdelho and the Colombo ’10 from the Arnsburguer grape- bet you never heard of that one before. It is in the Riesling family. We followed that with the Enxurros ’09 red made from the the tinta negra mole; and finally the Colombo red ’10, a blend of several red varieties. We did the cable car and the sled ride, both very exciting and traditional things to do as a tourist.

Then we went to lunch at the Fortress Restaurant with another tutored tasting, conducted by Amerigo Perreira, the leading sommelier in Madeira. We learned that there are 1600 small producers on the island with only 490 hectares under production. There is a total wine production of 5 million liters, of which 4 million are from the tinta negra, not recognized as a ‘noble’ variety and 1 million of sercial, verdelho, bual and malvasia, aka Malmsey. The still wine production has gone from practically nothing to 95,000 kiters. There is still quite a way to go quality wise, but it’s promising.. With lunch we had the barbeito medium dry, the top Madeira producer, the Palmeiras e Voltas white from bual, verdelho and arnsburguer; the Xavelha red, a blend of cab, merlot, tinta barrocca and complexa- another new grape for us. Finally with dessert we had the Barbeito Bual, a delicious nectar.

Of course we had more wines at our farewell dinner with some traditional Madeiran food. I am amazed at how our groups harmonize and bond so quickly- it’s what keeps Roz and me inspired.

We can’t wait to return to Portugal!

ps we had 2 winners to our blog contest: Bill Riccitelli and Jerry Foster: they correctly identified Madeira as the “Pearl of the Atlantic.” Congrats- prize to be mailed out shortly

Our private tasting at Quinta do Monte

fish market Funchal Madeira

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Madeira: Paradise on Earth

Our first full day in Madeira confirms that it is as close to paradise on earth that you’ll ever find. Everyone should come to Madeira at least once in their lives and as an incentive, I’m offering 5 vouchers worth $100 on a future Wine Lovers Tours to the first 5 people who can identify the moniker or descriptive phrase used to refer to Madeira.

We started our day by climbing high into the mountains: over 1200 meters, in our AC bus of course. There are tons of people who ramble in Madeira but not our crew. I have included some dranatic photos here and in the Portugal album on our website. Banana plantations, exotic flora, canopied vineyards on steep slopes that rival the Douro. And our hotel! Each of us has a sea view room and we can swim in the ocean, or fresh or salt water pools.

Our lunch yesterday was at a Quinta high up the slopes, part of the Charming Hotels of the World. Also having lunch near us were the Bishop of Madeira and the owner of Blandy’s. Sweet potato bread, Fried Maize, sweet potatoes with molasses, Barbecued beef “Espetada”delivered on skewers hanging on our tables, local red wine, dessert trolley, oven baked garlic bread. Everyone is mad at me because we’ve all gained weight.

We also managed to visit two producers of Madeira, Henriques & Henriques, and Blandy’s. We learned that there are 4 noble Madeira grapes, all white: Sercial (dry), Verdelho(medium dry), Bual, semi sweet and Malvasia aka Malmsley, the sweetest. There are also 2 rarer noble grapes: Terrantez and Moscatel. There is also a red grape, Tinta Negra Mole, not recognized by the Madeira Wine Institute as a noble grape. At our Henriques tasting, we had a dry 5 year old, a 15 year old Verdelho, a 20 year old Terrantez and a single harvest tinta negra from 1997. The Verdelho is my favorite. At Blandy’s we had a vertical tasting of Bual: 5 years, 10 years, 15 years and 18 years to follow the evolution.

Tomorrow is another full day highlighted by a visit to the market, a cable car ride, the famous sled rides and of course lunch. I’ll post another blog with photos but meanwhile try your luck at the guessing contest.

Cabo de Lobos is like Amalfi coast

Madeira producer Henriques & Henriques

Madeira banana plantation

Bishop of Funchal dines near us and greeted us

winecellar at Quinta do Estreito, our lunch stop

one of the oldest Madeira producers

bananas on the way to market

view from our fabulous hotel

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Bye, Bye Porto; Hello Madeira

Well, we leave mainland Portugal tomorrow for Madeira which will be a completely different experience. But we had a wonderful final day: we left Galicia at 9:30am which was really 8:30am in Portugal. Seems silly that there is a time change but we needed to factor that in our calculations because we were expected at Casa de Vilaverde at 11:30am Portugal time. Vilaverde is about 40 K from Porto in the vinho verde district. This was my 3rd time at Vilaverde but since they started offering catering services, we decided to book them also for lunch. I love visiting this kind of winery because for wine lovers, it’s a trifecta: wine, culture and cuisine all rolled into one visit. We had the run of the manorhouse, parts of which date to the 12th century! We had our tasting in the 12th century tower under the tutelage of the winemaker. They use 5 grapes in their vinho verde: Arinto, Tessadura, Loureiro, Pederna and Alvarinho.

Since we have an 8am flight for Funchal, we all need to get to bed early, including yours truly. Our next issue of the Wine Lovers blog will be from the magical isle of Madeira, so talk to you soon. Boa noite!

Lunch at Casa de Vilaverde

tasting in the tower room

bedroom in Vilaverde from the 1700's

chandelier in the manor house

Casa de Vilaverde, Lousada

azulejos in the chapel

The Chapel at Casa de Vilaverde

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Diary from Galicia: A White Wine Wonderland

We docked yesterday in Porto and left immediately for Galicia and our lunch appointment at Pazo de Galegos. This visit was set up courtesy of Patrick Mata of Ole Imports which introduced this wine to the US. It is one of the most outstanding examples of Albariño- and one of the most expensive. Our hosts were Manual Garcia Gomez and his son Pablo, the winemaker. This is a small, limited production winery that makes just 2 wines: their outstanding Albariño which has the creaminess of a wine that has had batonnage of the lees and a partial malolactic fermentation, and their Mencia, a blend of local red grapes with a fruitiness and acidity of a very good beaujolais.

Pazo de Galegos has a restaurant and our delicious meal was prepared by Manuel’s wife: asparagus crepes and local beef brought to our tables on a sizzling plate where it finished its cooking. We had 2 desserts: one was a surprise birthday cake for one of our participants celebrating her birthday that day.

We then checked into our hotel: Pazo de Almuzara. Pazo is a Galician baronial home, many of which have been converted into hotels. Everyone loved their rooms because we seemed to go back in time to the late 1800′s.

Today we went to Ribadavia, the heart of Galicia’s wine country and had a tasting at a family winery run by the same family for 7 generations. We then went into town for lunch: a typical Galician cocido or stew with copious variety and amounts of food. One does not come to this region to lose weight! We finished our day in with a guided tour of the old town, known for its former Sephardic community. This was not your normal Sunday and it took the bite out of missing Sunday football.

400 year old vine at Pazo de Galegos

Our Hosts at Pazo de Galegos

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From Boat to Bus: Our Tour Continues

Today we leave this beautiful ship- the Magellan- and the Douro region. Our luggage is being transferred to our bus and we drive about 3 hours to Galicia. I’ll update from Spain but I would like to post some details about our cruise.

As Jancis Robinson has written, the Douro is one of the top 5 most beautiful wine regions to visit. I gave 3 private wine tastings for our Wine Lovers group during the past 5 days. The wines were selected so we could try regions other than the Douro and also to try wines other than wineries we would be visiting.

We had 2 private winery visits arranged with the cruise company: on Wednesday we visited Quinta de Seixo, located near Pinhao and owned by Sandeman. This is a top flight operation with video and a museum and a spectacular tasting room. It’s located very high on the opposite bank from Pinhao. Everyone loved the white port- please try to pick up a white port since it has become the drink de rigueur for almost everyone in our group. Both Churchill’s and Sandeman’s white port were great examples. We also appreciated the Sandeman 1999 Vintage Port.

Thursday was a full day excursion to Salamanca in Spain. We had to bus to Salamanca since the Douro is not navigeable in Spain since there are no locks and the river is not deep enough. This was a great cultural day although we did have wine for lunch and dinner- this is a wine tour after all.

Friday was our last full day on board and it was superb! First we visited the grottos of San Salvador high up the Douro- I have no idea how monks in the Middle Ages got there- or even decided to build there. Then we went even further- 700 meters above sea level and visited the charming town of Sao Joao de Pesqueira.  It was a trip back in time to the 17th century. We walked along the former Jewish street- Rua de Gatos- and were reminded that Jews were expelled during the Inquisition.

After our town visit we went to a great family owned winery- Quinta do Quevedo. Owned by the same family for 5 generations, this was more of a boutique winery with an anuual production of 250,000 bottles, port and still wine. We were shown around by Claudia, the daughter and later had the opportunity to taste 3 of their wines with Papa. I bought 3 different bottles of estate bottled reds from 3 different vineyards. They produce a Rose Port, the first we had tried and a delightful tawny. I was so impressed that I also bought a bottle of tawny from 1968, produced by his grandfather and in the barrel for over 40 years!

We had a farewell dinner with the Captain last night and it was a great climax to a superb 5 days. Next up is a 3 day stay in Gal

The Bridge on Our Cruise Ship

icia

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Cruising the Douro

Vin in the Douro vineyards

Sorry I haven’t been able to post more blogs but internet service has been spotty as we travel eastward on the Douro. All I can say is that the tour so far has been fantabulous! This is my 4th tour of the Douro and the Port region and I will add my best! I love the combination of the 5 day cruise and the additional land visits. My previous tours were all by land which has advantages and disadvantages, but now that we’ve traveled as far as possible on the Douro, and combined that with flawless land visits, I am convinced there is no other way to visit this area. The cruise has been relaxing so it’s like a vacation within a vacation. I’ve been able to conduct wine tastings on board just for our group and we’ve had two private visits to two quintas. We also spent a full day in Salamanca yesterday. I’ll post tomorrow with a few details of the cruise portion but I wish that all wine lovers could have the opportunity to see the Douro this way. I can’t wait to do another but this one isn’t finished yet so we still have much to look forward to. I do have photos on our webpage so you can see some of the things we’ve done.

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